“An Account of the Manufacture of the Black Tea” 1838, by Charles Alexander Bruce

根据1838年的文章，总结出乌茶的工艺如下，主要包含采摘、萎凋、做青、杀青、揉捻、烘焙和分类包装等步骤：

1. 采摘：选取最嫩最柔软的青叶。在人手和青叶充裕时，用食指和拇指掐掉长有四片叶子左右的枝干末端，若叶子很嫩，可能掐掉更多。
2. 萎凋：将采摘的青叶置于大圆形开口竹篮，摊放稀疏，放在离地面 2 英尺、角度约 25° 的竹制框架上，在阳光下晾晒约两小时，期间偶尔翻动，待其轻微萎凋后，移至屋内架子摊凉半小时。
3. 做青：把青叶放入小篮子置于支架，雇工用手轻拍青叶并上抛使其落下，重复三次，每次间隔半小时，直至青叶如柔软皮革般。
4. 杀青：把青叶放入固定在圆形泥壁炉的热铸铁锅，用稻草或竹火把锅加热，每锅放约两磅青叶并摊开，用赤手不时翻动以防烧焦，叶子烫手时出锅。每用锅 3 – 4 次，就倒冷水刷洗锅具。
5. 揉捻：将热茶叶倒在有窄边的桌子上，分成两到三份，由多人用双手配合揉捻，过程中要让茶青团翻转并挤出汁液，揉捻约 5 分钟，期间还需用手指搓开、抖落茶青团，并摇动筛子使叶子聚集。揉捻后将茶叶放回热锅，再进行揉捻，然后放入干燥管（焙笼）。
6. 烘焙：把茶叶摊在焙笼的筛子上，置于炭火上，控制火候，保证木炭无烟。放入茶叶前拍打焙笼，防止碎叶掉入火中。烘焙过程中要不时翻动茶叶，当茶叶焙到半干，取出放在大篮子里置于架子上改善颜色。第二天再次烘焙，先少量平铺，茶叶变脆后加大数量堆放，撒炭灰降温，最后用另一个筛子覆盖，不时检查，直到茶叶极为酥脆即完成烘焙。
7. 分类包装：将烘焙好的茶叶分为大、中、小三类或四类，如白毫、包种、小种、大种等。分类后装入盒子，先用手压实，再用脚（穿上干净袜子）压实。
8. 特殊处理（阴干）：天气潮湿无法阳光晒干时，将青叶放在铺有竹网的小房间顶部网架上，下方铁锅生火，待青叶有点萎凋后，按正常流程制作，但此方法若非必要不使用。

“An Account Of The Manufacture Of The Black Tea, As Now Practiced At Suddeya In Upper Assam” is a book written by Charles Alexander Bruce in 1838. (in 1837, he was appointed Superintendent of Assam Jungles)

The book provides a detailed description of the process of manufacturing black tea in Suddeya, a region in Upper Assam. The author describes the various stages involved in the production of black tea, including plucking, withering, rolling, fermentation, and drying. He also explains the different types of tea leaves used in the process and the factors that affect the quality of the tea. The book provides a valuable insight into the tea industry in Assam during the 19th century and is a useful resource for those interested in the history of tea production.With Some Observations On The Culture Of The Plant In China.This scarce antiquarian book is a facsimile reprint of the old original and may contain some imperfections such as library marks and notations. Because we believe this work is culturally important, we have made it available as part of our commitment for protecting, preserving, and promoting the world’s literature in affordable, high quality, modern editions, that are true to their original work.

In the first place the youngest and most tender leaves are gathered; but when there are many hands and a great quantity of leaves to be collected, the people employed nip off with the forefinger and thumb the fine end of the branch with about four leaves on, and some times even more, if they look tender. These are all brought to the place where they are to be converted into Tea; they are then put into a large, circular, open-worked bamboo basket, having a rim all round, two fingers broad (see fig 1). The leaves are thinly scattered in these baskets, and then placed in a framework of bamboo, in all appearance like the side of an indian hut without grass, resting on posts, 2 feet from the ground, with an angle of about 25° (fig. 2). The baskets with leaves are put in this frame to dry in the sun, and are pushed up and brought down by a long bamboo with a circular piece of wood at the end (fig. 3). The leaves are permitted to dry about two hours, being occasionally turned; but the time required for this process depends on the heat of the sun. When they begin to have a slightly withered appearance, they are taken down and brought into the house, where they are placed on a frame (fig. 4) to cool for half an hour. They are then put into smaller baskets of the same kind as the former, and placed on a stand (fig. 5). People are now employed to soften the leaves still more by gently clapping them between their hands, with their fingers and thumb extended, and tossing them up and letting them fall, for about five or ten minutes. They are then again put on the frame (fig. 4) during half an hour, and brought down and clapped with the hands as before. This is done three successive times, until the leaves become to the touch like soft leather; the beating and putting away being said to give the tea the black colour and bitter flavour.

首先，采摘最嫩最柔软的青叶。但是，当人手和需要采摘的青叶都足够充裕时，人们就会用食指和拇指把长着四片叶子左右的枝干末端掐掉，如果叶子看起来很嫩的话，有时甚至会掐掉更多。这些青叶都被带到制茶处；然后把它们放进一个大的、圆形的、开口的竹篮中。竹篮四周有边，边宽两指。青叶稀疏地散落在这些篮子里，然后放在一个竹制的框架上，框架看起来就像一个没有草的印第安小屋的侧面，放在架杆上，离地面2英尺，角度约为25°。带 叶子的篮子放在这个框架上，在阳光下干燥，然后用一根末端有一块圆形的木 头的长竹子推上推下。青叶晾大约两个小时，偶尔翻一下；但这一过程所需的时间取决于太阳的热量。当它们开始有轻微萎凋的外观时，就把它们取下来，移到房子里，放在一个架子上摊凉半小时?。然后，它们被放进和前面一样的 小篮子里，放在支架上。接着，为了让青叶更加柔软，雇工们用手轻拍青叶， 展开拇指和其他手指，把它们向上抛，然后让它们落下，这样的过程大约持续 5到10分钟。然后把它们重新放在架子上半小时，再把它们拿下来，像以前一样用手拍打。这样连续做三次，直到青叶摸起来像柔软的皮革一样；据说，拍打和静置可以使茶呈现出黑色和苦味。

After this the Tea is put into hot cast-iron pans (fig. 6) which are fixed in a circular mud fire-place, so that the flame cannot ascend round the pan to incommode the operator. This pan is well heated by a straw or bamboo fire to a certain degree. About two pounds of the leaves are then put into each hot pan, and spread in such a manner that all the leaves may get the same degree of heat. They are every now and then briskly turned with the naked hand to prevent a leaf from being burnt. When the leaves become inconveniently hot to the hand, they are quickly taken out and delivered to another man with a close worked bamboo basket (fig. 7) ready to receive them. A few leaves that may have been left behind are smartly brushed out with a bamboo broom; all this time a brisk fire is kept up under the pan. After the pan has been used in this manner three or four times, a bucket of cold water is thrown in and a soft brickbat and bamboo broom used, to give it a good scouring out; the water is thrown out of the pan by the brush on one side, the pan itself being never taken off. The leaves all hot on the bamboo basket are laid on a table that has a narrow rim on its back, to prevent these baskets from slipping off when pushed against it. The two pounds of hot leaves are now divided into two or three parcels, and distributed to as many men, who stand up to the table with the leaves right before them, and each placing his legs close together; the leaves are next collected into a ball, which he gently grasps in his left hand, with the thumb extended, the fingers close together, and the hand resting on the little finger. The right hand must be extended in the same manner as the left, but with the palm turned downwards, resting on the top of the ball of tea leaves. Both hands are now employed to roll and propel the ball along; the left hand pushing it on, and allowing it to revolve as it moves; the right hand also pushes it forward, resting on it with some force, and keeping it down to express the juice which the leaves contain. The art lies here in giving the ball a circular motion and permitting it to turn under and in the hand two or three whole revolutions, before the arms are extended to their full length, and drawing the ball of leaves quickly back without leaving a leaf behind, being rolled for about five minutes in this way (fig. 8). The ball of Tea leaves is from time to time gently and delicately opened with the fingers, lifted as high as the face, and then allowed to fall again. This is done two or three times, to separate the leaves; and afterwards the basket with the leaves is lifted up as often, and receives a circular shake to bring these towards the centre. The leaves are now taken back to the hot pans and spread out in them as before, being again turned with the naked hand, and when hot taken out and rolled; after which they are put into the drying basket (fig. 9) and spread on a sieve, which is in the centre of the basket, and the whole placed over a charcoal fire. The fire is very nicely regulated; there must not be the least smoke, and the charcoal should be well picked.

之后，青叶被放入热的铸铁锅，锅固 定在一个圆形的泥壁炉，这样火焰就不会上升到锅的边缘给操作者带来不便用稻草或竹火把平底锅加热到一定程度。然后在每个热锅里放入大约两磅的青 叶，摊开青叶，使所有的叶子都能获得相同的热量。不时地用赤手轻轻翻动， 以防止叶子被烧焦。当叶子变得烫手令人不舒服时，很快出锅，另一个人则 手里拿着一个精心制作的竹篮接收出锅的青叶。用竹扫帚巧妙地把可能留下的少许叶子刷掉；在这段时间里，锅底的火一直烧得很旺。像这样用锅3到4次之后，就倒一桶冷水进去，用一块砖状物和竹帚把锅好好地刷洗一次；用一侧 的刷子把水扫出锅外，而锅本身还一直放在炉子上，不用取下。把竹篮里的热 的茶叶都倒在一张桌子上，桌子有窄边，为防止竹篮在倒出茶时滑落。这两磅 热茶叶现在被分成两到三份，分给尽可能多的人，他们站在桌子前，把叶子放在他们面前，每个人都并拢双脚；接下来，叶子被拢成一团，他们用左手紧紧 抓住，拇指伸出，其他手指并拢，靠小指力量侧撑在桌面上。右手必须像左手 一样伸出，但手掌向下，放在茶青团的上面。现在两只手都用来滚动和推动茶 青团；左手推着它，让它在移动时转动；右手也把它向前推，同时用力压在上面，把它压下去，挤压出叶子所含的汁液。这里的技术在于在用手推动茶青团绕圆， 并使其在手下完全翻转2到3次，然后把手臂伸直到最边缘处，再快速拉回来， 而不让一片茶青散落，用这种方式揉捻茶青大约5分钟?。茶青团不时用手指搓 开并举到脸的高度，然后再抖落。这样做两三次，分开茶青团；之后频繁地举起装着茶叶的筛子，进行循环摇动，使叶子向中间聚集。现在把叶子放回热锅里， 像以前一样摊在锅里，再次赤手翻转，热了就拿出来揉捻；然后放进干燥管(焙 笼)里，摊在筐中间的筛子上，然后将整个焙笼放在炭火上。很好地控制火候； 木炭也要挑拣好的，一点烟也不能有。

When the fire is lighted it is fanned until it gets a fine red glare and the smoke is all gone off; being every now and then stirred and the coals brought into the centre, so as to leave the outer edge low. When the leaves are put into the drying basket, they are gently separated by lifting them up with the fingers of both hands extended far apart and allowing them to fall down again; they are placed 3 or 4 inches deep on the sieve, leaving a passage in the centre for the hot air to pass. Before it is put over the fire the drying basket receives a smart slap with both hands in the act of lifting it up, which is done to shake down any leaves that might otherwise drop through the sieve, or to prevent them from falling into the fire and occasioning a smoke, which would affect and spoil the Tea This slap on the basket is invariably applied throughout the stages of the Tea manufacture. There is always a large basket underneath to receive the small leaves that fall, which are afterwards collected, dried and added to the other Tea; in no case are the baskets or sieves permitted to touch or remain on the ground, but always laid on a receiver with three legs (fig. 11). After the leaves have been half dried in the drying-basket, and while they are still soft, they are taken off the fire and put into large open-worked baskets (fig. 1) and then put on the shelf (fig. 4) in order that the Tea may improve in colour.

火点燃时，要扇旺，直到炭火呈现鲜艳的红色，烟雾全部消失；不时搅动一下，把炭块移到中间，这样就可以使外缘热度较低。当叶子被放入焙笼中时， 双手的手指合拢把叶子向上举起，再抖落，轻轻分开；在筛子上堆放3或4英 寸高，中央留下一个通道，让热空气通过。放在火上前，先举起焙笼，用双手 巧妙地拍打，这样做是为了摇晃掉任何能过筛眼的叶子，以免它们掉进火中产 生烟雾，会影响和破坏茶叶的品质。在整个过程中，都必须要在焙笼上拍一拍，其下总放一个大篮子，用来装掉下来的小茶叶。这些小茶叶随后被收集起来， 干燥后加入到另一种茶中；在任何情况下，篮子或筛子都不允许落地放置，而 必须放在有三条腿的架子上。焙到中半干后，趁茶叶仍然柔软时，将其从火中 取出，放入大的开放式篮子中，然后放在架子上，以使茶叶颜色更好。

Next day the leaves are all sorted into large, middling, and small; sometimes there are four sorts. All these the Chinese informed me become so many different kinds of Teas; the smallest leaves they called Pha-ho (白毫), the 2d Pow-chong (包种), the 3d Su-chong (小种), and the 4th or the largest leaves, Toy-chong (大种). After this assortment they are again put on the sieve in the drying basket (taking great care not to mix the sorts) and on the fire as on the preceding day; but now very little more than will cover the bottom of the sieve is put in at one time, the same care of the fire is taken as before, and the same precaution of tapping the drying basket every now and then. The Tea is taken off the fire with the nicest care for fear of any particle of the Tea falling into it. Whenever the drying basket is taken off, it is put on the receiver, (fig. 11) the sieve in the drying basket taken out, the Tea turned over, the sieve replaced, the tap given, and the basket placed again over the fire. As the Tea becomes crisp it is taken out and thrown into a large receiving basket, until all the quantity on hand has become alike dried and crisp; from which basket it is again removed into the drying basket, but now in much larger quantities. It is then piled up eight and ten inches high on the sieve in the drying basket, in the centre a small passage is left for the hot air to ascend, the fire that was before bright and clear, has now ashes thrown on it to deaden its effect, and the shakings that have been collected are put on the top of all, the tap is given and the basket with the greatest care is put over the fire. Another basket is placed over the whole to throw back any heat that may ascend. Now and then it is taken off and put on fig. 11, the hands with the fingers wide apart are run down the sides of the basket to the sieve, and the Tea gently turned over, the passage in the centre again made, &c. and the basket again placed on the fire. It is from time to time examined, and when the leaves have become so crisp that they break by the slightest pressure of the fingers, it is taken off, when the Tea is ready. All the different kinds of leaves underwent the same operation. The Tea is now little by little put into boxes and first pressed down with the hands and then with the feet, (clean stockings having been previously put on.)

第二天，叶子都被分为大、中、小三类；有时分四类。中国人告诉我，所有这些茶都被分成不同的种类；他们把最小的茶叫做白毫，第二小的茶的叫包种，第三小的茶叫小种，第四片或最大的叶子叫做大种(Toy-chong) 。 这样分类以后，再次把茶叶放在焙笼的筛子上(要小心，不可搀杂其他种类)，又像前一天一样放在火上；但是现在， 一次只放仅能覆盖筛底的茶叶，像之前一 样小心翼翼地生炭火，也像以前一样，放在火上之前，时不时的敲一下焙笼。 从火上取下茶叶时要小心翼翼，以免任何茶叶颗粒掉进去。每当取下焙笼时，就把它放在架子上，取出焙笼中的筛子，把茶叶翻过来，换个筛子，轻敲一下， 再把焙笼放在火上。当茶叶变脆时，就取出来，倒入一个大篮子，直到所有茶 叶都变得又干又脆；从这个篮子里，再次把茶叶移到焙笼里，但现在的数量要 大得多。在焙笼的筛子上，茶叶要堆成8到10英寸高，中间留出一个小通道， 让热空气上升，之前清晰明亮的炭火，现在撒上炭灰来减弱它的温度，把刚才 敲下来的细茶放在最上面，敲一敲，最后小心地把焙笼放在火上。另一个筛子 覆盖在上面，以阻挡任何可能上升的热量。不时地取下焙笼，放在架子上，两 手张开，沿着篮的两侧滑到筛子上，轻轻地把茶叶翻过来，再次留出中间的热 气通道，等等。焙笼又被放在火上，不时地检查。当叶子变得极为酥脆，轻微 的按压就碎时，取下来，茶就焙好了。所有不同种类的茶叶都进行了相同的制 作后，把茶一点一点地装进盒子里，先用手压下去，再用脚压下去(之前已经穿上了干净的袜子)。

There is a small room inside of the Tea house, 7 cubits square and 5 high, having bamboos laid across on the top to support a net work of bamboo, and the sides of the room smeared with mud to exclude the air. When there is wet weather, and the leaves cannot be dried in the sun, they are laid out on the top of this room on the net work, on an iron pan, the same as is used to heat the leaves; some fire is put into it, either of grass or bamboo, so that the flame may ascend higlı, the pan is put on a square wooden frame (fig. 12) that has wooden rollers on its legs, and pushed round and round this little room by one man, while another feeds the fire, the leaves on the top being occasionally turned; when they are a little withered, the fire is taken away, and the leaves brought down and manufactured into Tea, in the same manner as if it had been dried in the sun. But this is not a good plan, and never had recourse to, if it can possibly be avoided.

茶厂里有一个小房间，七腕尺见方，五腕尺高，上面铺着竹子，支撑着竹网，房间的四周涂上了泥，以隔绝空气。当天气潮湿，叶子又不能在阳光下晒干时，它们就被放在这个房间的顶部的网架上，放在一个铁锅上，就像用来加热叶子的铁锅一样。用草或竹子生火，这样火焰就可以升到更高的地方。锅放 在一个方形的木架上，木架的腿上有木滚轮，一个人在这个小房间里推来推去， 另一个人添柴，偶尔翻动一下顶上的叶子；当青叶有点萎凋时，就把火拿走， 把叶子取下来制作，就像在阳光下晒干一样。但这不是一个好的方案，如非必要， 就不会用。

A DIALOGUE BETWEEN MR. C. A. BRUCE AND THE CHINA BLACK-TEA MAKERS.

作者布鲁斯(C.A.Bruce) 与中国制茶师的对话

1, Does the China Tea plant grow mostly on the mountains of China or in the vallies?

“About seven parts grow on the mountains and three in the vallies.”

问：中国茶树主要生长在山上还是山谷里?

答：大约七成生长在山上，三成生长在山谷里。

2, Does the Tea plant grow amongst the snow ?

” Yes.”

问：茶树在雪中能生长吗?

答：能。

3, Does not the snow kill or hurt the plants?

“It hurts them very little, it may kill some of the old trees, but often new shoots come up from the old plants.”

问：雪不会冻死或伤害茶树吗?

答：对它们的伤害很小，它可能会冻死一些老树，但通常老树会长出新的嫩枝 。

4, To what age does the Tea plant attain in your country?

“Generally, about fifty years, but some only live ten.”

问：你们国家的茶树能活几年?

答：一般是50年左右，但有些茶树只活了10年。

5, How do you plant the Tea seeds?

“I dig a hole about four fingers deep and eight inches in diameter, and put as many seeds as I can hold in both hands into it, then cover it up.”

问：你如何培育茶树种子?

答：挖一个大约4个手指深、直径8英寸的坑，然后用双手能抓住尽可能多的种子放进去，然后用土把它们盖起来。

6, How long is it before the seedlings come up, and in what months do you put them into the ground?

“We sow some in November and December, and some in January;  when the rains set in they come up.”

问：幼苗长出来需要多长时间?几个月内把它们移栽到地里?

答：我们在11月和12月播种一些，在1月播种一些；当雨季来临时，它们就会出苗。

7, When are the plants fit for plucking?

“Sometimes in the third, and sometimes in the fourth year, according to the soil.”

问：这些茶树什么时候可以采摘?

答：有时在第三年，有时在第四年，根据土壤情况。

8, How high are they in the third year?

“From one to two cubits; a great deal depends on the soil.”

问：第三年他们有多高?

答：从一肘到两肘，很大程度上取决于土壤。

9, If you were not to pluck the leaves, would the plants grow higher?

“To be sure they would; it is the constant plucking of the leaves that keeps the plants low.”

问：如果不摘叶子，茶树会长得更高吗?

答：当然会。正是不断地采摘叶子，才使茶树保持低矮。

10, How many of the seeds that you SOW come up in general?

“good seeds from ten to twenty. ”

问：播种的种子一般有多少会发芽?

答：如果好的种子，有10到20粒会发芽。

11, Do you allow them all to grow in the same place, or do you transplant them afterwards?

“We allow them all to grow, and very seldom transplant; if we do, it is performed in the rains, and from four to six plants are put close together, so as to form a fine bush.”

问：让它们在同一个地方生长，还是需要再移植?

答：我们让它们就地生长，很少移植；如果要移植，就在下雨时进行，然后将4到6株茶苗紧密地放在一起，形成一个完美的茶丛。

12, At what distance is one Tea bush from another?

“From three to four feet apart are small ridges of earth, eight inches to a foot high, a hollow space being left between to draw off the rain water; the bushes are at equal distances from each other, and in straight lines.”

问：一丛茶树离另一丛有多远?

答：每隔3到4英尺是小土埂，有8英寸到1英尺高，中间留了 一 个中空 的空间，用来排出雨水；这些茶树彼此之间的距离相等，呈直线分布。

13, Do you ever dig trenches to prevent the plants being washed away?

“Yes, we are obliged to dig many; the shape and form of the trenches depend upon the ground and situation.”

问：需不需要挖沟来防止茶树被冲走?

答：是的，我们必须挖很多；沟的形状取决于地面和地形。

14, What quantity of manufactured Tea do you think each Tea plant produces in one season?

“This varies very much; some plants only produce two rupees weight, while others produce a pound and a half; but about a quarter of a pound, all round, I should think the first crop; the second crop a little less, and some people never take the third crop for fear of killing the trees.”

问：每株茶树一季能生产多少茶叶?

答：这很难一概而论； 一些茶树只能生产两卢比重的茶叶，而另一些则生 产1.5磅重的茶叶；不过，我想大概第一季大约是四分之一磅重吧；第二季少收一点；有些人因为害怕茶树死亡，从来不收第三季。

15, Do you always manufacture the Tea in China, in the same way as you have the Assam Tea?

“The same.”

问：制作阿萨姆茶和在中国制作茶叶的方式总是一样吗?

答： 一样的。

16, Do you know how to make Green Tea?

“No.”

问：你知道怎么制作绿茶吗?

答：不知道。

17, Do you ever put anything to the Tea to give it a flavour?

“Never.”

问：你曾有在茶里添加其他东西调味吗?

答：从来没有。

18, Do you ever sow or plant in the shade, or have you any trees to shade the plants?

“No, there are a few large trees here and there, but not for shade.”

问：需要在阴凉处播种或种植茶树吗?需要用什么办法给茶树遮阴吗?

答：没有，到处都有一些大树，但不是用来遮阴的。

19, If your plantations are on the side of mountains, they cannot have the sun all day?

“True, in some plantations the plants are in the shade for nearly half the day; some China merchants that come to purchase Tea, pretend to know which is shady and which sunny by the smell, the sunny being preferred.”

问：如果茶园在山脚，它们不是不能整天有阳光吗?

答：的确，在一些茶园里，茶树几乎半天都在阴凉处。有些来买茶的中国商人，闻着味道，假装知道哪个是阴处的，哪个是向阳的。他们喜欢向阳的。

20, Do the Tea plants cast all their leaves in the winter?

“Great numbers fall, but the plants always retain some.”

问：茶树在冬天落叶吗?

答：会的，但总还能保留一些。

21, Which do you think have the most juice when they are rolled, the leaves from the sunny tract, or those from the shady?

“Those from the shady tract.”

问：哪一种叶子揉捻起来时汁水最多，是阳光充足处的叶子，还是阴凉处的叶子?

答：阴凉处的。

22, Which require to be most dried in the sun?

“The shady-tract leaves.”

问：哪一种茶需要在阳光下晒干?

答：阴凉处的叶子。

23, Which of the two Teas do you think best?

“That from the sunny tract.”

问：你认为这两种茶哪一种更好?

答：向阳处的。

24, Which produce most leaves, those in the shade, or those plants that have been cut down, and afterwards permitted to grow up?

“The latter twice as many.”

问：哪一种茶树长的叶子更多?是在阴凉处的，还是那些被砍下，然后再次生长的?

答：后者是前者的两倍。

25, Which do you think produce most seeds?

“Those in the sun.”

问：哪种茶树产更多茶籽?

答：向阳的。

26, Do you ever in China plant from slips?

“No.”

问：有用剪枝扞插法种植过茶树吗?

答 ：没有。

27, After you have made the Tea in China, how long is it before it is fit to drink?

“About one year; if drank before that, it will taste unpleasantly and of the fire, and will affect the head.”

问：中国茶制作好了之后，要多久才可以喝呢?

答：大约一年；如果在这之前喝，就会有火味和苦味，而且提神效果不好。

28, How long will Tea keep without being damaged from the air in boxes

it will keep good for three or four years.

问：茶叶能保存多长时间而不变质呢?

答：如果把它放在盒子里，密封性好的话，可以保存3到4年。

29,  In which months do you commence plucking the leaves in China? ”

If the weather is warm and fine, and the season has not been a very cold one, the first crop commences in May, the second crop about forty-seven days after the first, and the third crop about the same time after the second, or forty-two days.”

问：在中国，你们从几月份开始采摘茶叶?

答：如果天气温暖而晴朗，第一季茶叶在5月开始采摘。第二季茶叶在第 一季茶叶之后大约47天，第三季茶叶与第二季茶叶间隔时间大约相同，也就是42天左右。

30, When you roll the China leaves, do you think they contain more juice, or less, than the Assam ones?

“The China leaves, I think, have more juice, and the leaves are much smaller.”

问：揉捻时，中国茶叶比阿萨姆的茶叶含有更多的汁液吗?

答：中国的叶子有更多的汁液，而且叶子要小得多。

31, Is the soil of the China Tea the same as the Assam?

“The same.”

问：中国茶叶的土壤和阿萨姆的一样吗?

答：相同的。

32, How often do you weed your plantations?

“Once in the rains and once in the cold weather.”

问：茶园多久除一次草?

答：下雨时除草一次，寒冷的天气里除草一次。

The place these Chinamen speak of is called “Kong-see (江西),” on the mountains, about 40 days journey by water to Canton, and two days journey from the great Tea country “Mow-ee-san (武夷山).”

这些中国人所说的地方叫“江西”(Kong-see)，走水路到广州大约需要40天，从著名的茶乡“武夷山”过去需要两天的路程。

A few Observations on the Tea Plant of Assam.

The Tea plants in Assam have in general been found to grow, and to thrive best, near small rivers and pools of water, and in those places where, after heavy falls of rain, large quanties of water have accumulated, and in their struggle to get free, have cut out for themselves numerous small channels. The sort of land to which I allude will be perhaps letter explained by means of a diagram.

The dotted line shews the limit of the highest flooding. On the top of this land you must fancy a thick wood of all sorts and sizes of trees, and amongst these the Tea tree, struggling for existence; the ground here and there having a natural ditch cut by the rain water, which forms so many small Islands. The largest piece of ground that I have met with, I think was about 600 paces without a break. I also add a section of the little river Kahong, where the Tea plant abounds, exhibiting many small Islands, every one of which is covered with trees of various sizes, and the Tea among them; the land being never wholly inundated in the rains, though nearly so. This kind of land is called Coor-kah Mutty. I have never met with the Tea plants growing in the sun, but invariably under shade, in thick woods, or what we call treejungle, and only there, and in no other jungle whatever. It struggles for existence amongst so many other trees, that it becomes tall and slender, with most of its branches high up. The largest Tea tree I ever met with was 29 cubits high, and four spans round; very few I should say attain that size. I have taken great numbers of Tea plants from the jungles, brought them 4 to 8 days journey to my own house, and planted them in the sun, that is, without any shade; during the first six months the half of them died, at the end of the year about one quarter of what I had originally brought only lived; at the end of the 2d year there was still less; those that did live threw out leaves and blossoms, but the fruit never came to perfection. The plants I speak of were from one to three feet high; if they have grown any thing since they were transplanted, it has hardly been perceptible, either in height or thickness; many of them have had the advantage of a little shade from the trees in my garden, and those that had the most shade I find look healthier than those that had none, and they throw out more leaves. I have often read and heard of the China Tea plant growing no higher than three feet; their being planted in the sun and their leaves constantly gathered, I think accounts for it. A short time ago I requested and got permission from Government to try some experiments in my own way. About the middle of last March, I brought three or four thousand young plants from their native soil in the Muttuck country, about eight days journey, and planted them in the tree-jungles of this place, eight and ten close together, in deep shade. From 4 to 500 were planted in different places, some miles from each other; in the latter end of May I visited them and found them as fresh as if they had been in their native soil, throwing out fresh leaves. As these thrived so well, last June I brought from the same place 17,000 more young plants, and planted them in Coor-kah Mutty, about two miles from this place in deep shade; they are now throwing out new leaves and thriving as well as could be expected, although the soil here is nothing like that from whence they were taken-in which point alone the places differ. To shew how very hardy they are I may mention, that they were in the first instance plucked out by the roots by the village people who were sent to bring them from their native jungles, put upright into baskets without any earth, brought two days journey on men’s backs, put upright into canoes, a little common earth only being thrown amongst their roots, and were from seven to twenty days before they reached me; and then they had to be carried half a day’s journey to the intended new plantation, and were four and five days with only a little moist earth at their roots, before they were finally put into the ground. And yet these plants are doing well; at least the greater part of them. I will give another instance of their hardiness. Last year the Government sent a deputation of three scientific gentlemen to examine the Assam Tea plant, Dr. Wallich, Mr. Griffith, and Mr. McClelland, -the two former Botanists, the latter a Geologist. Dr. Wallich who conducted the deputation, requested me to accompany them, being the only European who had ever visited the Tea tracts, as the different localities are called. One day after having seen some Tea in company with these gentlemen, and as we were returning, I was informed by some natives of another patch or tract of Tea that had been cut down. We went and examined it, and found the plants just coming up, about 6 inches high. On enquiry we were told that the villagers took the Tea plant to be so much jungle, and therefore nearly cut all of it down close to the ground, and set fire to the whole, and then planted paddy or rice on the spot. The crop of paddy had just been cut and brought in; when we saw the plants, the shoots were coming up from the roots and old stumps, thick and numerous. Some Tea plants I noticed had only been cut a foot, and some two to four feet from the ground; all these threw out numerous shoots and leaves an inch or two below where they had been cut. I afterwards converted this piece of ground into a Tea garden on account of the Government, and now it is one of the finest I have; where there was formerly one Tea plant, there are now upwards of a dozen, the new shoots from the old cuttings forming a fine bush, and shewing a great contrast to some of the original trees, which I have permitted to stand, with slender trunks and a few branches only at the top. This tract or garden has yielded more Tea this season, than twelve times the same space of ground in the jungles would have done. I found that as the plants that had been cut down grew up again, the leaves acquired a yellowish tinge from their exposure to the sun, and were much thicker than those in the jungles; but this yellow tinge has worn off, and the leaves are now as green as those in the shade. As this tract answered so well by being cut down and set fire to, I tried the same experiment upon another tract close by, and it has come up to what I expected of it, eight to twelve new shoots having risen from the old stumps in the place of one. It is now a very fine Tea tract. Not knowing how this plan of cutting down might answer eventually, and how it might effect the plants, I took another tract in hand, allowed all the Tea plants to remain, but cut down all the other trees, large and small, that gave them shade, piled them up, and what I could not set fire to, I threw into the water courses. These Tea plants are doing well, but still each plant remains single, consequently has not many leaves, and is much in the same condition as when under shade. We have not had sufficient time to show what effect the sun may have on the leaves, and the Tea made from them. This tract has a curious appearance, the plants appearing hardly strong enough to support themselves now they are deprived of their friendly shade. I have some other tracts under experiment; some where I have permitted the jungle trees to grow, and only cleared away the brushwood and other small trees to admit the rays of the sun; others with very little shade. I have cut off branches of the Tea plants and laid them horizontally in the ground, with an inch or two of earth on them, and they have thrown out numerous shoots the whole length of the branch; other branches were simply pushed into the earth, and they havegrown; but this was all in the shade. I do not think they would answer so well in the sun.

I have the pleasure of furnishing a map which I have made of all the Tea tracts I have discovered. Since it was composed several more tracts have been discovered, which I have not had time to enter. It should be observed, that south from Suddeeah to the Debree river is generally termed Chyquah. South of Debree river is called the Muttuck country, as far the Burro Dehing river. South of the Burro Dehing, river is situated Rajah Purundah Sing’s country. From the hill and river called Jowrah Poong, which is nearly at the source of the Debree river, to a place called Beesa, south of the above hill, on the Burro Dehing river, near the little river Juglow Pauney, is called the Singpho country, being all to the east of the above line. Now it will be perceived, that not a single Tea tract has been discovered north of the Debree river, and that they are all on the south side of it. The Muttuck country, which I have traversed most, appears to me to be one vast Tea country, and I feel confident that not one half of its Tea tracts have been yet discovered. The whole of the soil of the Muttuck country appears well adapted for Tea; I have taken particular notice of it, digging and examining it at every place where I have stopped. Great numbers of the Tea tracts have been cut down in sheer ignorance by the natives and converted into paddy fields. I know of three tracts, where the paddy had been collected, and the Tea plants had sprung up again; when these are neglected they all rise up into thick wood jungle. Several of these places have been pointed out to me by some of the old inhabitants. Almost every inhabitant of the Muttuck country know now the Tea leaf, seeing how much we prize it, and getting little rewards from me when they bring in a branch from any new tract. There is plenty of Tea in Rajah Purundah’s country, but he is too lazy to trouble himself about it; he is not even acquainted with those places laid down in my map. I have lately heard of a very extensive tract in his country, said to be as large as a dozen tracts put together. Several tracts are 800 paces long and nearly the same in breadth, and others only 100; but they have not all been properly examined, and may prove much larger. All these tracts can be enlarged almost to any extent from the numerous seedlings that are found amongst the Tea plants, from the great number of seeds that can be collected every year, and from the immense number of cuttings that may be planted. With respect to the seedlings, I have sown numerous seeds at Suddeeah in the sun; many have come up and appeared to thrive very well for the first year, but there was an insect, the Mole Cricket I think it is called, which used to nip off the young and tender leaves, and carry them into a hole under ground near the root of the plant; and I never succeeded in getting one plant to live. But last year I sowed some seeds in my garden under the shade of trees and bushes, they have come up and are thriving very well. The seeds I sowed in the sun last year, in the Muttuck country, and in their native soil in one of my Tea tracts, have also come up and are doing well. The Tea tracts in the Singpho country are much larger than those in the Muttuck. The Singphos have known and drank the Tea for many years, but they make it in a very different way from what the Chinese do. They pluck the young and tender leaves and dry them a little in the sun; some put them out into the dew and then again into the sun three successive days, others only after a little drying put them into hot pans, turn them about until quite hot, and then place them into the hollow of a bamboo, and drive the whole down with a stick, holding and turning the bamboo over the fire all the time, until it is full, then tie the end up with leaves, and hang the bamboo up in some smoky place in the hut; thus prepared the Tea will keep good for years. A good way further east they dig holes in the earth, line the sides with large leaves, boil the Tea leaves, throw away the decoction, put the leaves into the hole, which they cover over with leaves and earth, and then allow the whole to ferment; after which it is taken out, filled into bamboos, and in this manner prepared taken to market. These Singphos pretend to be great judges of Tea. All their country abounds with the plant, but they are very jealous and will give no information where it is to be found, like the Muttuck people. All the Singpho territories are overrun with wood jungle, and if only the under wood was cleared, they would make a noble Tea country. The soil is well adapted for the plant. Nearly three years ago I by accident left a few Singpho Tea plants, which I had carried away, on the banks of the New Dehing, three days journey from the place where I had got them; they were discovered by some Singpho friends of mine and stuck into the earth; and there they are now growing, as if they had never been transplanted, and notwithstanding they were put in the shade. The Singpho country is a fine one, but as long as that nation can get the Tea leaves from the jungles, they never will cultivate the plant; the country is thinly inhabited by a set of men, who are always fighting amongst themselves. The Tea is said to grow on the top of the Nagah Hills, marked in my map, South of Ningrew, on the banks of the Burro Dehing. All the Tea tracts laid down are in the vallies.

The above observations have been thrown together in a hurry, without much order. I therefore hope that allowances will be made for their imperfections. I may at some other time resume the subject if it is thought of any interest.

C. A. BRUCE,

Supt. of Tea Culture in Assam.

EXPLANATION OF THE PLATES.

PLATE I.

Fig. 1. Dallah or large bamboo basket for drying the tea leaves in, with a rim all round; 21 feet in diameter.

Fig. 2. Bamboo frame supporting the baskets with fresh gathered leaves drying in the sun; some of the baskets are represented as placed on the frame.

Fig. 3. Bamboo with a circular piece of wood at the end, used for pushing up, and bringing down the dallahs or baskets with leaves; the circular wood taking hold of the rim.

Fig. 4. Frame having three or more shelves made of bamboos placed lengthways, for holding the dallahs with leaves, after they have been removed from the sun.

Fig. 5. Stand on which the basket is placed, 2 feet 8 inches wide, and 2 feet 6 inches high.

Fig. 6. Cast-iron pan placed on a mud fire place, for heating the leaves; 2 feet 1 inch in diameter, and 74 inches deep.

PLATE ΙΙ.

Fig. 7. Close-worked basket, 2 feet 4 inches in diameter, with an edge all round, used for receiving the leaves from the pan, and for rolling them on, after it has been placed on the table.

Fig. 8. The left hand grasping the leaves about to be rolled, resting on the little finger; the extended right hand with the fingers close together, except the thumb, which is stretched out; ready to be placed on the leaves received from the left hand.

Figs. 9 & 10. Drying basket lined with paper on purpose to retain the heat better, and placed over a charcoal fire.

Fig. 11. Stand for a large circular basket, for receiving the shakings from the drying basket when placed on it, to remove the sieve and to turn the leaves during the process of drying.

Fig. 12. Stand with four legs each having a wooden roller, 2 feet 8 inches high and 1 foot 6 inches broad on each side. Fig. 12, b, represents this stand with the cast-iron pan on it.

Fig. 13. Basket used for various purposes, such as shaking and cleaning the leaves, carrying the dry tea, &c.

Fig. 14. The large circular basket, Fig. 7, on the stand Fig. 11, having on it the drying basket with the sieve fixed to the middle by means of small bamboo pegs.